lemon chicken with potatoes and chickpeas

It’s humbling that way every September, without fail, knocks me on my rump. One week, you’re breezy and unscheduled, reading books on a beach and tearing lobster apart with your bare hands (indeed, we were in Maine) and the next you’re realizing a certain fetid backpack was never emptied on the last day of school in June, scrambling for after-school care, and despite the fact that I work every week of the year, somehow there’s a lot more to do. If dinner can’t be made in one pan in which everything cooks at once, I haven’t been making it. And yet I’ve made this chicken dish four times in the last month; it’s clearly time to shout about it across the internet.

I trace this back toa newsletterfromClare de Boerlast April (and if you don’t subscribe, you should; it’swonderful), in which she was on a mission to find a sheet pan chicken recipe that actually had crispy skin, and found it in a pan of chicken thighs with lemon and onion. I, too, am a crispy chicken skin skeptic; it’s not that I don’t believe itgetscrisp, but I find it rarely stays that way once it has rested or when other ingredients join the party. But, curiosity got the better of me — curiosity, but not, uh, any kind of adherence to the recipe as written because see above: I need everything to be a meal-in-one-pan right now. I added potatoes (because potatoes with chicken and lemon are excellent) and chickpeas (I’m honestly less clear on why, but it felt right) to a baking dish (not sheet pan) and despite all of my changes, was still entirely delighted with the outcome.

The chicken thighs are utterly crisp on top and the lemon, onion, garlic, oregano, and olive oil underneath collect the chicken drippings and swirl it into a delicious sauce that perfumes the potato wedges and chickpeas as they roast. Rind-on lemon slices, something I often find to be an unwelcome interruption in dishes, are fantastic here, mellowed by the oil and general brothiness and sweetened by the onion. In one round, I tried to remove the chickpeas to simplify the dish and (I could not make this up) received an irritated text from a teenager: “Dad said you’re making the chicken without the chickpeas — why? I like them.” Unwilling to cross a15 year-olddemanding legumes, they’ve stayed.

Podcast!A new episode of my podcast with J. Kenji Lopez-Alt,The Recipe with Kenji and Debis out and I’m a little biased but I think this is one of the most fun ones yet, onthe mighty BLT sandwich. You can listen to it anywhere you get your podcasts and catch up on any episodes you’ve missedright here. New episodes drop every other Monday. I hope you enjoy listening as much as we’re enjoying the conversation.