mathilde’s tomato tart

I read a new novel,The Margot Affair, last month and loved it. It’s not about about food, but every time a meal comes up, I was riveted by how good it sounded. “The salt-cured cod was layered with cream mashed potatoes and presented in a small cocotte… the mussels bathed in white wine and garlic sauce.” “Caramelized slices of pear hid beneath the custard, and the top was sprinkled with shards of toasted almonds.” “She made it with whole milk and a dash of cream and pieces of dark chocolate. I dipped a piece of buttered toast into the chocolate.” Because I buy and read books completely blind — I don’t like reading reviews or even the backs of books or I find I’m always waiting for [something that is mentioned that’s not a spoiler, sure, but still a thing I now know will happen and I only want to know when] and it’s not as fun. I also didn’t know anything about the author,Sanaë Lemoinegoing in and hadn’t realized she is, in fact, a Food Person, a former cookbook editor from Phaidon and Martha Stewart. No wonder every time a character cooks, you want to be in the kitchen with them. After I mentioned on Instagram how much I’d enjoyed the book, Lemoine emailed me to ask if I’d like recipes for any of the dishes mentioned. A real recipe from a fictional character? Is it toobizarre? Even more challenging was choosing between the clafoutis with caramelized pears (above) and other dishes but in the end it’s tomato season and I had no chance resisting the recipe behind this passage, which sounds like the only kind of August I want to have: “For dinner Mathilde made a tomato tart with fennel salad. She had bought the tomatoes at the market and they spilled juice onto the cutting board as she sliced them open. She always made her own crust and shaped it like a true paÌ‚tissier, leveling off the edges until it was flush against the mold. Beneath the tomatoes, she added a layer of parsley pesto and grated cheese.” I used heirloom tomatoes but you do not need to — I try to limit my fussing over heirlooms here, anyway, because it feels like hagiography — any good field-grown tomato will work, or even smaller tomatoes, halved or sliced. Inspired by Mathilde, I did indeed make my own crust and leveled off the edges, but I won’t tell anyone if you use a storebought crust or sheet of puffed pastry instead (for the latter, I’d bake it flat, as we dohere). The result is exactly as good as it sounded in the book, an abundantly flavorful, very summery light meal. We had it with a green salad with a vinaigrette I snuck a spoonful of mayo into, also inspired by Mathilde, but next time I’m going to make my favorite fennel salad — do you want the recipe? anyone? (I always get tumbleweeds when I talk about fennel, it’s okay, sigh, more for me.) [Update:Here’s the fennel salad!] However you serve it, I hope you love it as much as we have for lunch this week. Six months ago:Pina ColadaOne year ago:Black Pepper Tofu and EggplantTwo years ago:Foccacia Sandwiches for a CrowdThree years ago:Blackberry-Blueberry Crumb PieFour years ago:Summer Squash Pizza,Peach Melba Popsicles, andChile-Lime Melon SaladFive years ago:Raspberry Crushed IceSix years ago:Cold Noodles with Miso, Lime, and Gingerand Apricot Pistachio SquaresSeven years ago:Charred Corn Crepes,Burst Tomato Galette with Corn and ZucchiniandStrawberry, Lime, and Black Pepper PopsiclesEight years ago:Pink Lemonade BarsandCharred Pepper Steak SauceNine years ago:Sugar Plum Crepes with Ricotta and HoneyTen years ago:Everyday Chocolate CakeandZucchini and Almond Pasta SaladEleven years ago:Asparagus with Chorizo and CroutonsandSour Cherry Slab PieTwelve years ago:Cantaloupe SalsaandPlum KuchenandRoasted Carrot and Avocado SaladThirteen years ago:Summer Pea and Roasted Red Pepper Pasta SaladFourteen years ago:Huevos Racheros,Blueberry Crumb Bars,Napa Cabbage Salad with Buttermilk Dressing, andQuick Zucchini Sauté