cabbage and mushroom “lasagna”

cabbage and mushroom “lasagna”

⏱️ 20 minutes prep, 30 minutes cook (50 minutes total)
📊 Hard
🍽️ Russian Cuisine

Instructions

In July, because I make no sense at all, I decided to knock an item off my To Cook list that’s been there since 2010, a golden, bubbling, layered dish of mushrooms, cabbage, thinly sliced potatoes bound with abechamelsauce and topped with cheese. Talk about beach eats! But a craving is a craving and I made it with the thought that we could try it, then freeze the rest until that whole December – January zone when the sun sets at approximately 3:32pm and the only way to endure it is to channel some Scandinaviancozinessand make it,like,fashion. Candles! Thick sweaters! Tea, a good book, and soft music. Long-cooked winter vegetables snug in a rich casserole. Instead, over a few days we finished the whole thing because it’s completely amazing. The recipe comes from the Marcus Jernmark, the Swedish chef who, at the time, helmed Aquavit, a high-end Scandinavian restaurant in midtown. The recipe made its way into a column by Elaine Louie that briefly ran in the New York Times called “The Temporary Vegetarian” that I followed with devotion. It’s not like a decade ago was dark times for vegetarians, but this column had a freshness to it, focusing on vegetable-forward and varied dishes with home cooks in mind, a few years before its time. (It later becamea book). Jernmark explained that in the fall in Sweden, they eat cabbage, kale, and mushrooms, and he wanted to turn them into a seasonal, homey take on lasagna. Because I’m a pedant, I’m not entirely sold on the name. It seems as much a potato and vegetable gratin as anything else but I’m leaving it because it’s layered, and I have a thing forlasagnasoutsidethe red sauce and ricotta cheese box, anyway. It’s a bit of work, as can happen when three vegetables and a sauce are involved, but it’s honestly the perfect dish for laying low on a cold weekend: lush but not as nap-inducing as pasta-ed versions. And it’s excellent. The photos don’t do it justice, but it’s cooked cabbage, guys. It’s doing its best. One year ago:Dutch Apple PieTwo years ago:Brussels Sprouts, Apple, and Pomegranate SaladandSpinach Sheet Pan QuicheThree years ago:Pecan PieandRoasted Leek and White Bean GalettesFour years ago:Classic Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline SauceandCrispy Sweet Potato RoastFive years ago:Cauliflower with Brown Butter CrumbsandParsley Leaf PotatoesSix years ago:Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon VinaigretteSeven years ago:Dijon-Braised Brussels SproutsEight years ago:Sweet Corn SpoonbreadandApple LatkesNine years ago:Sweet Potato Buttermilk Pie,Creamed SpinachandGingerbread Apple Upside-Down CakeTen years ago:Cranberry Pecan Frangipane Tart,Mustard-Roasted PotatoesandWalnut TartletsEleven years ago:Black Bean Pumpkin Soup,Chicken with Chanterelles and Pearl Onions,Pumpkin WafflesandCream White Polenta with MushroomsTwelve years ago:No-Knead Bread,Tomato and Sausage Risotto,Sundried Tomato Stuffed Mushrooms And for the other side of the world:Six Months Ago:Ice Cream Cake RollandGarlic Lime Steak and Noodle Salad1.5 Years Ago:Potatoes AnnaandStrawberry Graham Icebox Cake2.5 Years Ago:Confetti CookiesandRoasted Carrots with Avocado and Yogurt3.5 Years Ago:Toasted Marshmallow MilkshakeandFake Shack Burger4.5 Years Ago:Soft Pretzel Knots and BunsandCarrot Salad with Tahini and Crisped Chickpeas

Ingredients

9 tablespoons (130 grams) unsalted butter, divided3 tablespoons (25 grams) plus 1 teaspoon (3 grams) all-purpose flour2 2/3 cups (630 ml) whole or lowfat milk1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmegSalt and ground black pepper1 medium onion, chopped1 garlic clove, minced1 pound (455 grams) assorted (shiitake, oyster, porcini, chanterelles, etc.) or just cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage (I used less)2 pounds (905 grams) Napa cabbage, 12 large leaves removed from the head, and reserved, the remainder sliced thin1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine1 1/2 pounds (680 grams, about 4) yukon gold potatoes, sliced 1/8-inch thick1 cup (135 grams) grated Parmesan cheese, or Västerbotten (the chef’s preference).

Cooking Tips

There are three key things to know going into this dish:Seasoning is really key here. It’s winter vegetables, butter, milk, and cheese; it will not naturally boom with flavor. Make sure every element is gets the necessary salt and pepper and it will add up to something wonderful.I found mine got a little watery as it baked, because cabbage is watery. You can baste a little out, if you wish, or you can just let it go. As it cools, most will settle back around the vegetables and it shouldn’t seem too wet.I almost didn’t share this recipe because it’s got a bunch of steps, and a lot of vegetables to chop (the dish is all vegetables, after all), and thought nobody would want to make it, but it’s too delicious not to. So do as I do, put on your headphones, queue up The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill, try to get your head around the fact that it’s now20 years old, and you’ll be done before Mary J. Blige shows up.